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When assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. However, tucked prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the family completely astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.